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思い出の湖南料理「手斯包菜」

2019年7月1日

冷蔵庫にキャベツがあると食べたくなってしまうほどに愛している料理。湖南料理の「手斯包菜」。

以前、仕事で年間の3分の1以上中国にいた時期があって、その頃現地でよく食べていた料理がこれ。レストランに入ると大抵置いてあって、どこへ行っても毎日でもオーダーして食べていました。黒酢の酸味とピリ辛さがビールにぴったり合うんです。そして手斯包菜があればご飯がどんどんと済んじゃうんです。

あまりに好きすぎて日本でも食べたいと思った僕は、まずは湖南料理のお店を探しました。都内に数軒あったものの、手斯包菜は置いておらず。しかも都内の中華は結構高級な感じが多く、ちょっと違うんだよなと思ったり。もう自分で作るしかないかと腹をくくりレシピを検索してみるも、日本語サイトは全滅（当時）。中国語ではいくつか見つけるも、写真もなけりゃ書いている中国語もよくわからない。当時付き合っていた彼女にも聞いてみるが、彼女は四川省出身で湖南料理はよくわからない。

ということで、自分の記憶を頼りに再現してみることにした。一番最初に作ったのはキャベツを炒めて醤油をかけたもの。方向性は合っているけど、全然違う。そうか！ニンニクだ、ニンニクがたっぷり入っていた気がする。そして辛かった。鷹の爪を入れてみよう。でもやっぱり味が違う。はっ！酸味。酢か？酢を入れてみればいいのか？何度目かに気づいた酢を入れるという作戦は大当たり。味がかなり近くなった。その後、酢を輸入品の黒酢に変えるとまた思い出の味に近づく。でも日本風のなんちゃって中華料理になっていました。

 

今回、8年越しにようやっと本格的な味を再現できました。決め手はナンプラー。今まで僕は日本の醤油を使っていたのですが、ナンプラーを使うことで中国の町のその辺にある食堂の味になったと思います。

自分で作って感動した。中国に行きたくなってきた。

 

《手斯包菜レシピ》

※男の料理なんで、分量とかかなり雑です。すみません。。

◎キャベツ・・・どっさり。食べたいだけどうぞ

◎ニンニク・・・2片。多めが好きです

◎鷹の爪・・・お好みで。本場は結構ヒーヒーいうくらい辛い

◎ごま油・・・通常の炒め物よりも結構多め

◎黒酢・・・お好み

◎ナンプラー・・・お好み

 

1．キャベツを手で千切ります。手斯包菜の手斯とは、手でちぎるという意味。包菜はキャベツのこと。

2．ニンニクをスライスし、たっぷり油をひいたフランパンで炒めます。

3．ニンニクのすぐ後に鷹の爪を、そしてキャベツをどさっと入れてしんなりするまで炒めます。強火が中華っぽいけど、ニンニクを焦がしたくない方は中火がオススメ。

4．ごま油を再度投入し、黒酢、ナンプラーを加えて、味が馴染むまで炒めて完成！

 

5分でできる超時短メニューです。夏の暑い時に食べると黒酢で元気になります。

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