京都に行くのなら!絶対に足を伸ばしたかった滋賀の近江八幡。番の主力商品であり、私が愛してやまない本藍染めの「ノラふく」の染め元「紺喜」さんへ
思えば近江八幡にくるのは2回目。
コマが生まれる前に会津のギャラリーひと粒さんのご縁でお話会に来たが4年半前。この写真の私、どれだかわかります?若いですね〜〜笑
そもそもノラふくとの出逢いも、その時お話会で出逢ったユキちゃんが「チカちゃん…というか福島の女の子たちにどうしても紹介したい服があるの!」とメールをくれたのがはじまりでした。(思えば感慨深い、、、)今回はそんなユキちゃんに再会。そしてノラふくを手がけるhougetsu/萌蘖のまなみさんとも念願のご対面で一緒に染めしてきました。
初めて訪れる紺喜さんは、それはそれは気がよく、明治初期から営んでおられるという佇まいを其処彼処に感じる、心地よい時の流れ。
何よりもお父さん。シャキッとしてはって(敢えての関西弁)めちゃめちゃカッコイイ。御歳83歳。藍歴はゆうに60年以上。ここにある藍の甕を発酵させられる技術を持っているのは紺喜でただ1人、お父さんだけ。
採れた藍の種を畑に植え、収穫し、手を入れ発酵させスクモを作り染料としての維持管理までの全てを1人でこなしている。「昔はね〜半農半商っていっての〜みんななんでも自分で作っとってな〜。せやから農閑期に染めしててん」。最近では、半農半Xなんて言葉がよく使われてるけど、その起源に「半農半商」なんて言葉があるなんて知らなかった無知な私は目から鱗だった。
こちらがお父さんが育てている生藍をそのまま乾燥したもの。乾燥してはじめてこの濃い青色が出てくるそうで、確かにこうして乾かされた葉っぱをそのまま見るだけでも、あのノラふくの藍を想像できる深い色。もう既にこの時点で美しい。
その藍を発酵させている甕が土の中に埋まっている。お父さんのところには甕が全部で10個もあって(これでもだいぶ縮小したって言ってたけど)この日はその中の7つの蓋が開いていた。甕ひとつひとつの色が異なり、右奥から左手前にかけてぐるっと順繰り段々と濃くなっていく。一番薄いところから一二度ずつ入れていき、藍に藍を重ねていく。お父さん曰く、薄い色から入れていくことで深い深い藍色を生み出すことができるのだと。こんなに色味のちがう甕をいくつも作っている紺屋さんは然う然うないのだとまなみさんも言っていた。なるほど、ノラふくの青が他の藍染めと何かがちがう。と感覚的に思っていたのはこういうことだったのか。
この日は関西にも寒波が来ていて、最高気温は5度を下回っていた。それなのに甕の中に手を入れると、ほんのり温かい。その理由はこちらの穴にあり。ここに籾殻と燠火が入っていて、じんわりじんわりと甕全体を温めていたのだ。寒い日はこうして暖をとり藍を守っている。まるで小さな赤子のようだ。
「一緒に食べるか!?」とお父さん、籾の中に畑で採れたというサツマイモを入れて焼き、振る舞ってくれた。小さな子どもを連れてお邪魔した私たちへの、お父さん流のおもてなし、粋である。
それではさっそくと私たちも染めさせてもらった。
白い布を一番薄い甕から順に入れていく。
私は初めて知ったのだけれど、最初から青に染まるわけではなく、一番最初は黄色。
甕からあげて空気に触れるにつれ、段々と黄色が緑色になり、そこからほんのり青がお目見えしてくる。自分の手の中で変わっていくこのグラーデーション。ぬるっと手にまとわりつく独特の触感、まさに生き物を触っている感覚。感動的すぎる。
そこからは、入れては絞って入れて絞って空気に触れさせるを繰り返す。
みて。こんなにきれいなスカイブルー。
甕の中に入っている時間は、ちょっとした瞑想タイム。
「どう?藍さんもう良い頃合いよ!って言ってる?」なんてコマと会話しながら。ひとつの会話が終わると「そろそろかな?」といって取り出す。この待ちの時間がまたよくて、時計などもはや邪道。というか必要としない。
これまた4年半ぶりの再会のようこさん(こちらも近江八幡のお話会で出逢った)が大福を持ってひょいと顔を出してくれて子守りをしてくれたお陰で、孝介も染めることができた。神!
どこまで濃い色を入れるかは、その時の自分の「これだ」を信じいいあんばいまで。
「良いくらい」と思ったら、井戸水で青色が出なくなくなるまで洗い流す。洗い流す光景もまた美しい。
そしてこの井戸水、冬なのににわかにぬくい。冬はあたたかく、夏は冷たい気がするんだとユキちゃんが言っていた。まったく上手いことできてはりますね。
今回は濃淡のちがうストールを二枚とムスヒの名入りのおくるみタオルを一枚。
一生ものの3枚ができあがった。
コマと2人、手まで染まって。
それでも「もっとやる!」と何度もリピートした3歳児。
こちらの経験も一生もの。
気づけば日暮れ。一日中、時間を忘れて染めていた。
一段落した甕の手入れをするお父さん。石灰を入れて水を入れてかき混ぜる。「どのくらいいれるんですか?」って聞いたら「いいくらい」。どうして石灰入れるかって?そんなのわかんない、昔からそうしてきたからやってるだけだって。アルカリ性だとか酸性だとか色々あんだろ?って。そんな論理はわかんないけど、その時の藍の状態見てればわかるんだって。
不思議でね、お父さんが「いいくらい」までかき混ぜるとまるで藍が生き返るかのように青色が戻ってくる。
「ありがとう〜」って言ってるようにあたしは感じたよ。
最後にはお父さんとお母さんと記念の一枚。
なんだろう、不思議でねこにはきっとまたすぐにくると思うんだ。
だって、もっと聴きたいし感じたい。
数ある紺屋さんの中で、お父さんのところを選んで通い続けるまなみさんの理由も
私にノラふくをすすめてくれたユキちゃんの気持ちの裏側も
ノラふくが私たちを惹き付けてやまないその訳も少しわかった気がしたよ。
私たちが言葉に頼りすぎてるっていうこともね。
ノラふくは、人生を変える服だと思ってる。
その想いがここへきてより一層強くなった。
大切に着よう、大切に育てよう、そして大切に伝える。
一生育てる服。
これからも、あなたの人生とともに。
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